With their elaborate preparations of fish, vegetables and lentils served with rice as a staple diet, the Bengali cuisine has evolved for years, passing through the Nawab Rule and undergoing a major change with European influence when the East India Company decided to make Calcutta as the nation's capital. After the partition of the huge state that Bengal was, there were distinctly two different styles of cooking based on the ancestral origin of the family - the fiery curries of the Bangal style made popular in India by the immigrants from East Bengal (Bangladesh) and the sweet loving natives of West Bengal who developed the Ghoti style.
Though both styles of cooking originate from almost the same geographical location, they differ entirely in the spices and marinades used. With a lavish use of oil and chillies, the trump card of Bangal cooking is probably the use of morich bata and phoron, a combination of whole spices, fried and added at the start or finish of cooking as a flavouring special to each dish. Bhapa Ilish is one such preparation in which the Hilsa fish is steamed in oil and spices, giving it a musky and smoky flavour.
Ridiculed by the Bangals for their bland and sweet gravies, the main ingredient in a Ghoti's kitchen is jaggery or sugar. Traditionally preferring the sweet taste, a true Ghoti is known to add a bit of sugar to most of their dishes. Another ingredient, which is widely used by the Ghotis is posto (poppy seeds). Their all time fascination with this has led to most of the Ghoti delicacies being lined with poppy seeds like Alu Posto, Dim Posto, Jhinge Posto and much more.
Contrary to the popular belief, not all Bengalis are rice oriented and herein lies another difference in Ghotis and Bangals. A typical Bangal starts his day with rice for breakfast, has lunch with rice and finishes his dinner with rice whereas a Ghoti prefers deep-fried flatbread made of wheat-flour called luchis. These luchis come in different sizes and varieties; the ones made of atta are called puris and stuffed luchis are called kochuris.
While Bengalis are in general stereotyped and associated with Macher Jhol Bhaat (Fish Curry), the divide among the Paschimbangya (West Bengal residents) and the Purbabangya (East Bengal residents) has caused a division in the loyalty to the fishes as well as their style of cooking. The Bangals are characterized by their staunch support for Ilish Machh (Hilsa) and believe that the Hilsa from the Padma River is anyday more tastier than the ones from Rupnarayan River. While Ghotis disregard all such claims, their love for lobsters and prawns is far more than that of Hilsa. Bangals also savour typical fishes like Pabda and Loita as well as dried fish or shutki mach. Ghotis prefer the bigger Rohu or Katla.
The Hilsa and Lobster difference in Kolkata is so sound that they are even used as symbols or emblems of the two sects in football matches. Whenever there is a match between East Bengal (Bangal supporters) and Mohun Bagan (Ghoti supporters), the respective fans carry Hilsa or Lobsters home for dinner after the victory as a sign of dominance over the other.
Although these differences draw them apart, over the last 50 years significant cross influences have taken place, which has resulted in more of a unified fusion cuisine. This is due to migration on religious lines after the partition of India as well as inter marriages. In today's nuclear families, the style followed by Bengali homes usually depends on which district the lady is from. However still talk to a Bangal or Ghoti and they will proudly try to convince you how their cuisine is better than their counterpart's.
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| Bhapa Ilish |
Though both styles of cooking originate from almost the same geographical location, they differ entirely in the spices and marinades used. With a lavish use of oil and chillies, the trump card of Bangal cooking is probably the use of morich bata and phoron, a combination of whole spices, fried and added at the start or finish of cooking as a flavouring special to each dish. Bhapa Ilish is one such preparation in which the Hilsa fish is steamed in oil and spices, giving it a musky and smoky flavour.
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| Alu Jhinge Posto at Oh! Calcutta |
Ridiculed by the Bangals for their bland and sweet gravies, the main ingredient in a Ghoti's kitchen is jaggery or sugar. Traditionally preferring the sweet taste, a true Ghoti is known to add a bit of sugar to most of their dishes. Another ingredient, which is widely used by the Ghotis is posto (poppy seeds). Their all time fascination with this has led to most of the Ghoti delicacies being lined with poppy seeds like Alu Posto, Dim Posto, Jhinge Posto and much more.
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| Luchis at Oh! Calcutta |
Contrary to the popular belief, not all Bengalis are rice oriented and herein lies another difference in Ghotis and Bangals. A typical Bangal starts his day with rice for breakfast, has lunch with rice and finishes his dinner with rice whereas a Ghoti prefers deep-fried flatbread made of wheat-flour called luchis. These luchis come in different sizes and varieties; the ones made of atta are called puris and stuffed luchis are called kochuris.
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| Chitol Peti |
While Bengalis are in general stereotyped and associated with Macher Jhol Bhaat (Fish Curry), the divide among the Paschimbangya (West Bengal residents) and the Purbabangya (East Bengal residents) has caused a division in the loyalty to the fishes as well as their style of cooking. The Bangals are characterized by their staunch support for Ilish Machh (Hilsa) and believe that the Hilsa from the Padma River is anyday more tastier than the ones from Rupnarayan River. While Ghotis disregard all such claims, their love for lobsters and prawns is far more than that of Hilsa. Bangals also savour typical fishes like Pabda and Loita as well as dried fish or shutki mach. Ghotis prefer the bigger Rohu or Katla.
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| Ilish Maach (Hilsa) |
The Hilsa and Lobster difference in Kolkata is so sound that they are even used as symbols or emblems of the two sects in football matches. Whenever there is a match between East Bengal (Bangal supporters) and Mohun Bagan (Ghoti supporters), the respective fans carry Hilsa or Lobsters home for dinner after the victory as a sign of dominance over the other.
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| Chingri Maachh (Prawns) |
Although these differences draw them apart, over the last 50 years significant cross influences have taken place, which has resulted in more of a unified fusion cuisine. This is due to migration on religious lines after the partition of India as well as inter marriages. In today's nuclear families, the style followed by Bengali homes usually depends on which district the lady is from. However still talk to a Bangal or Ghoti and they will proudly try to convince you how their cuisine is better than their counterpart's.
Bulls eye...candid...but ya one shud also enlist the variations in desserts n proverbial rossogolla recipes...bangals like the pure chana ones whereas the ghotis like the spongy counterparts...
ReplyDeleteThis is not true. The sponge rasogolla was innovated to cater to the requirement of the floating people and for those who like their rasogollas a little less sweet. Ghotis (and I am one) have had rasogollas since ages. In the districts, and in Kolkata's para'r dokan, you will find the pure chhana variety, which is heavier and sweeter. In districts like Hooghly, Barddhaman, Birbhum, and even the Midnapur's, you won't find any sponge rassogolla. I therefore beg to disagree with your observation.
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